D Loops-Rollcast -Jump rollcast-Spey-cast

Double Spey-Single Spey-Circle Cast-Snakeroll

Using the fly line.

We use heavier fly-lines in salmon fishing to deliver heavy or bulky (air resistant) flies. The fly-line is just a long thin flexible weight as opposed to a compact weight a bait fisher might use, (the effect on the rod is the same), as a rough guide we need about three times the rod length of fly-line to start to make the spring of the rod work correctly.

The way that fly-lines are designed is to have a thick belly section, which will carry the energy easily from the rod tip after the rod spring has unloaded. As this energy travels along the line it unrolls like a tank track (the loop), as it arrives at the taper near the end, it then speeds up. The energy must continue down this conduit to the fly, this is why it is very important to have a leader that is thick enough and the right length to carry this.

On the back end of the thick belly, there is another taper; this should come just inside the rod tip (transfer of energy). It then continues down to a thin running line (unless it is a double taper), this is designed that way to reduce the friction of the line running through the rod rings when shooting line.

We can use different densities of lines to present the fly at different depths at different flow rates. This may be by using a sink tip on the end of a floater, to a full sunk line. When using these types of lines it is important that you roll cast the fly-line to the surface to make it into a floater for a second before attempting to lift the line into a cast. Frequently clean your fly-lines to stop them cracking and loosing there shootabilty properties with a recommended cleaner. To get rid of reel line memory, give the fly line a good stretch yard by yard to reset the inner core straight.

SHOOTING LINE

Most Spey casting lines today have a belly of a certain length, which then tapers down to a thin running line. To do an efficient cast we have to bring the start of the belly taper to just outside the rod tip. If more distance is needed, we can’t use a longer line outside of the rod tip (unless it is a double taper) because the energy just won’t transfer from the thin line to the thick belly. We need to start with the belly just outside the rod tip. Pull a few yards of slack line off the reel. Have the coil of slack line hanging down from either a finger on the upper or lower hand, pinched to the cork. (I favour the lower hand, as the fly-line does not get caught up on the reel when line is shot). The normal cast is done with very little extra effort. The crucial part is knowing when to release your finger to let the line go. It is the travelling loop of line that will pull the slack fly line through the rings.
It is vital that you don’t release the line until the rod is stopped (unloaded/unflexed). A good guide to this is to say, ‘STOP and DROP.’ On the word DROP, release the line.

The reel

There is a tension knob or clutch adjustment on the side plate of the reel. This should be set so that when you give the line a sharp tug it should not overrun. When playing a fish you can use the palm of your hand to put more pressure on the exposed rim of the spool to slow a fish down. Very important at the end of the fight when the fish makes a sudden lunge you haven’t got to much tension on or the line will part.

Make sure you have plenty of backing on the reel, at least 150 yards of rot proof 30 pound breaking strain. When the line is wound on the reel it should come to within an eighth of an inch of the lip. Check and clean /oil the reel frequently; grit or sand in the workings will make the reel jamb. Large arbor are preferable to small arbor.

THE GRIP

This is a personal preference, but a good guide is to hold the butt of the rod below the reel with the lower hand (L or R) and place the upper hand on the upper section of the handle wherever it feels comfortable, usually about a shoulder width apart. It is very important to hold the rod lightly with your thumbs on top.

Although poor casting will catch you the odd fish, good casting will get you a lot more. You are able to cover known lies effectively and cover a lot more water, and the bonus is it’s a lot more enjoyable and safer. Always buy the best quality tackle and clothing you can afford, it will pay you back many fold. If you are warm and dry, and your equipment is sound you will fish with a lot more confidence.

THE STANCE

The correct stance is not always possible when you are fishing, you can find yourself in some unusual postures and have to be adaptable. You will none-the-less find that when you do stand square on to the target, the cast is much easier to perform than being twisted away from where you are trying to place the line. That apart, for learning a cast you may find it easier to put the foot under the upper arm forward, this is called the closed stance and will stop the rod tip from travelling too far behind the casters head mis-aligning the back-cast. Always face shoulders square onto the target.

USING THE ROD

Think of the rod as a long tapered spring.

The effort is put in at the butt with two hands using a push/pull action with the forearms and wrist, (50/50, dont forget to use the lower hand, that is what will flex the rod and make the cast for you). Think of using the upper hand as a guide to direct the rod tip and the lower hand to make the cast.

With an accelerating movement of the rod the weight of the fly line holds the rod tip back. As we come to the conclusion of the forward stroke there is rapid acceleration to an abrupt stop. The now fully flexed rod/spring with the aid of a firm base (locking the arms up and keeping the shoulders firm on the stop) unflexes rapidly slinging the line forward. The position of the upper arm should still be bent when the forward stroke is finished. The back cast is as important on both Spey and overhead as the forward cast.

Overhead, smooth accellerating gliding lift	Building in the speed

To an abrupt stop	Drift back with the tip as the cast unrolls

Every movement you make with a rod must be a smooth acceleration to a definate stop. This keeps tension on the rod tip, if you haven’t got tension you’ve got slack and much of the rod movement will be wasted picking this up. The fly-line follows the path of the rod tip. Dont forget to look well above the water when delivering the cast and to stand square on to the target.

Smooth delivery to a stop....	as the cast unfolds and drops, follow down

Spey back-cast - side view	Spey back-cast - rear view

Always tape your rod joints! Normally insulation tape is adequate to stop the joints working loose with the twisting action of the rod while casting. On some rods where there is a varnish finish, amalgamating (non-stick) tape is a better option.

Flies

Choice of fly is personal, if you have confidence in what you’re using, sometimes that’s all you need. But there are some guidelines to go by although they are not set in stone. If there is a strong current or coloured water, a bigger fly will usually work. In spring in cold water, a fly that is presented deep and slow and has a fair bit of yellow in the pattern, of about two or three inches long in total is okay. If the water is low and clear and warmer in the summer, a small fly of an inch or less (USUALLY), which is black, has the desired effect. This can be fished a lot higher in the water and it is the silhouette that the fish will respond to. Autumn time something about an inch and a half with red or orange is good, fished anywhere between the bottom to the top. Flies that work well on the Eden are Willie Gunn, Munroe Killer, Boyo, Haslam and Stoats tail.
Do yourself a favour and tie your own, you will get a lot more satisfaction out of your sport.

A couple of Boyo's, Autumn and Spring.

Various tubes